Live Locally!

Always smart to call or verify through website link (highlighted if available) to confirm before you go! U pick areas can be closed due to weather, crop loss, coverage or staffing.

Cache County

Paradise Valley Orchard – Apples, pumpkins, raspberries, rhubarb, winter squash, pumpkin patch-pick in the field, pumpkin patch- already gathered from the field, and pre-picked produce, gift shop, picnic area
9971 South Highway 165, Paradise, UT 84328. Phone: 435-245-6203. Email: pvorchard@gmail.com. Directions: 1.1 Miles south of the town of Paradise on Highway 165 going towards Avon. Crops are usually available in September, October, November, December. Open: Sunday through Saturday Sunrise to Sunset. Payment: Cash, Check. Free Range Eggs, Fresh unpasturized apple cider, local raw honey. Playground, picnic area and restroom facilities are available. Dogs are welcome! (UPDATED: May 26, 2009)

Davis County

Day Farms -Phone: Asparagus, beans, eggplant, peppers, pumpkins, strawberries, tomatoes, squash. Other fruit or veg, honey from hives on the farm, and pre-picked produce, restrooms, school tours can be arranged.
Located at 2500 W. Gentile Road, Layton, UT 84041. Phone: 801-546-4316 Crops are usually available in April through October. Open: July-Sept Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 7pm Starting October-Monday to Saturday from 11am-6pm. Pumpkin Hayrides: 3 wks. in October Sept, Tomatoes, Green Beans, Bell/Chili/Hot Peppers, Egg Plant andTomatillos: Aug-Sept, Pumpkins:
Payment: Cash, only. Picked produce: Asparagus: April and May. Sweet Corn: July-September Green Beans, New Potatoes, Yellow Squash, Zucchini, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Watermelon, Cantaloupe, Peaches: Aug-September Storage Potatoes, Storage Onions, Winter Squash, Pumpkins, Mini-pumpkins, gourds, Indian corn, straw and stalks: October. Honey: Aug-Oct. Apples: Oct.

Salt Lake County

Farnsworth Farms and Cider Mill – apples, eggplant, pears, peaches, peppers, plums, tomatoes, Cider mill (fresh apple cider made on the premises), pre-picked produce, gift shop, restrooms, school tours
11228 South 700 East, Sandy, UT 84070. Phone: 801-571-0858. Email: farmboy@xmission.com. Directions: Look for the big red building about 100 yards west of the road. We replanted most of our orchard in the spring of 2008. These little trees will take a few years to grow and begin producing. The only fruit trees that we have for the public to pick are about 75 golden delicious apple trees. We will still have everything else available to sell that we will bring in from our other farms. Crops are usually available in August thru Nov. Open: Monday thru Saturday 11:00 am to 6:00 pm, closed Sunday. tomato, corn, and eggplant – August 22 to mid October or the first frost; apples, peaches, pears, plums – Sept 12 to end of harvest in mid to late October; fresh pressed apple cider starts September 12 and will continue until the apple supply is gone sometime in the spring; School field trips are available from September to mid October. Payment: Cash, Check, Visa/MasterCard.

Utah County

Bronsons Apples - apples, pumpkins, Honey from hives on the farm, already-picked produce – Apples/Pumpkins ready in late fall
590 E 3200 No., Lehi, UT 84043. Phone: 801-471-6338. Email: drhoades_24@yahoo.com. Open: Monday to Saturday 9am to dusk. Directions: From 1-15 take th Alpine/highland exit and head east go 2 miles at the Center street light turn right or south. go around the round a bout and continue east. We are the house on the next corner. Our address is 590 E 3200 No. also a county address of 10800 No 7600 W. Click here for a map and directions. Payment: Cash, Check.

Maple Mountain Greenhouse and Strawberry Farms – strawberries website:http://gardensedge.blogspot.com/
1550 West 2600 South (Hwy 89), Mapleton, UT 84664. Phone: (801)-380-6673. Or Phone: (801)-491-6602. Email: strawberryfarm03@msn.com. Open: See their website for current hours. We specialize in “Strawberry Hanging Baskets” for sale. Take one home and have berries till the first frost. Come see us in the greenhouse!

McBride Briar Patch – blackberries, raspberries (Autumn, red), already-picked produce
1849 S. 2100 W., Mapleton, UT 84664. Phone: 801-367-0755. Email: mcbrideberrypatch@msn.com. Web link here
Open: Monday through Friday, 3 pm to dark, Saturday 8 am to 3 pm; Closed Sunday; If you want to pick earlier in the day, please call to make arrangements. Directions: From I-15 take the 257 exit (Spanish Fork exit) and go South on Main Street to 400 North. Turn left and drive about 3 miles to 2100 West, Mapleton. (400 North Spanish Fork changes to 1600 South, Mapleton.) turn right on 2100 West. Our home and berry patch is the third farm on the right. Our berries are usually available August, September and well into October (until the first hard frost). Payment: Cash, Check.

MJ Millers Farm and Orchard - beans, beets, broccoli, carrots, corn (sweet), cucumbers, eggplant, melons, nectarines, peaches, peppers, plums, pumpkins, raspberries (red), raspberries (Spring, red), raspberries (Autumn, red), raspberries (yellow), raspberries (Spring, yellow), raspberries (Autumn, yellow), summer squash, winter squash, tomatoes, other vegetables. Great new option at this farm – you can call (24hr) for special orders that will be picked no more than one hour before you arrive-talk about customer service!
5759 W 11300 South, Payson, UT 84651. Phone: 801-465-2493. Email: mjmillersfarmandorchard@gmail.com. Website here
Open: Summer and Fall days are Monday thru Friday, 7 am til 7 pm. Payment: Cash, Check.

Phelps Berry Farm – blackberries, cherries, raspberries (Autumn, red), walnuts, already-picked produce
8722 South 6200 West, Payson, UT 84651. Phone: 801 465-4408. Email: shaunaphelps@gmail.com. Open: U – pick cherries: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 8:30 am until 8:00 pm; Closed on Sundays and Wednesdays during cherry season; Bring your own containers; Great for young children; Blackberry and raspberry picking is by appointment only; Please call after July 27 to schedule; Bring your own containers to pick in; Empty gallon milk or water jugs work well; Cut the very top out, leaving the handle completely intact; Use a belt and wear the milk jug around your waist so you have two hands to pick with; Each jug holds about 4 pounds of fruit; Best for ages 10 on up; If you bring young children, please have them pick into your container, as they always smash the berries.

The Raspberry Patch of West Mountain raspberries (Autumn, red),
5781 W. 11450 S., Payson, UT 84651. Phone: 801 465-4284. Alternate Phone: 801 360-0040. Click here for website Email: amy@westmountainraspberries.com. Open: Monday through Saturday, 7:00 am to 8:30 pm; Basically dusk to dawn; Closed on Sundays. Directions: Take Payson exit 250. Go West, past bowling alley, about three miles. Then, South on 5600 West for another three miles. Bring your own containers; Families are welcome; Raspberries will produce well into October and through several mild frosts. Payment: Cash, Check.

Wayne County

Pioneer fruit farms – fruit from orchards – click here for additional info
Superintendent, Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70 Box 15, Torrey, Utah 84775. Phone: 435-425-3791. E-Mail: care_superintendent@nps.gov Pick your own in season. The park is located in south-central Utah. From Green River, Utah, take Hwy 24 west through Hanksville; from Richfield, take Hwy 24 east through the communities of Loa, Lyman, Bicknell and Torrey. The park and campgrounds are open year round. The Visitor Center is open daily (except Christmas Day) from 8:00 am to 4:30 pm with extended hours during the summer season.

Marketmores on Trellis

Many varieties of cucumber can be grown on a trellis or frame type structure – you train the tendril vines up the trellis as they grow. The trellis takes less space in the garden and usually distributes the sunlight more evenly. Cucumbers will send out runner vines and do not trail well over weed block fabric (it gets too hot), this is easily remedied – cover the weed block with a layer of grass clippings from the mower. This helps preserve the watering, holds the soil temp more evenly and allows the vines to travel more.
Usually the larger cucumbers grow, the more likely they are to loose their flavor or even become bitter. Pick them young and slender (they will have less developed seeds and be sweeter) and prompt picking ensures more fruit setting. Another hint is when harvesting – cut the vine just above the cucumber itself rather than detaching it at the flower. It will store better this way and helps the plant not lose additional energy.
Some varieties, like Armenian cucumbers are a light green, creased lengthwise (and they can be exceptionally long) and have an edible skin – they are actually an undeveloped melon! The varieties you normally see in the produce section are the dark green “burpless”or “straight eight” – and some stores will carry the “english” or seedless cucumbers. My favorite variety is “marketmore” for the garden – it will trellis, has abundant fruit and produces fruit at days intervals. The “armenian” variety does wonderfully here, but can overwhelm a garden patch if you are limited on space – although it can be grown on a sturdy trellis or fence.

Piccolo Basil & Petunias

Fragrant, pretty and not pest prone – now that is a good gardening combination! Speaking of some fun patio planter options – check out the Wooden Cart Planter or the Wooden Cart Wagon – both very attractive – I especially like the idea that each can be moved around as the season sun pattern changes on your deck for best display. Even if you just have a balcony, I have seen some great options – check out this raised bed designed for apartment dwellers. There are any number of raised bed gardening kits for yards as well – a lot of them are getting very green being constructed of recycled materials etc.
Speaking of favorite “gadgets” for my veggie garden – its the tomato cage. We have gone through so many types and will pass on to you what we have found – the small gauge 3 ring cages are great for peppers, eggplant etc – but are not sturdy or tall enough for local tomato’s. The four ring heavy gauge will last you about 3 to 4 seasons (if you wire them together and to a base). I found a tomato cage product that seems to make sense, its made it Texas, folds for storage and is plenty tall – but you know how those Texans like em’….big and all! I have found that the thinner gauge square cages are a great idea, but fell apart at the welds after just one season. So this year – we were bound and determined to find some that would weather the storm (excuse the pun!). Then we found the “handi cage” – solidly made, painted to be rust proof, and come in two 1/2 squares thus allowing multi-configuration!

New Tomato Cages for 2010

Another bonus – its a local product, made in Hyde Park, Utah. Haven’t been able to find a website….etc – Will give you a “cage review” at the end of the year with my annual tomato report.
Another experiment this year – and yes get ready to giggle….Just so happened that my car nut husband has some old Hoosier racing slicks hanging around the garage – well here’s the best idea I could come up for them

Yukon golds

We’ve got two planted with yukon gold potatoes – about ready to add the first layer of dirt now that they are sprouting well.

Speaking of sprouting – the garlic is coming early despite the rain (raised beds really help the drainage problem) and noticed that a few heads are already starting to “curl”. Curling is when the central stalk comes out and does a total “pig tail” on itself. This is how the garlic tells you that its just about mature. I usually wait until all the garlic has curls and cut them off. If you didn’t cut the curls off, they will go to seed and the garlic bulb will shrink to give the seeds all the energy. But cutting the curls off you stop the bulb degradation. The good news is the curls are totally edible – slice very thin and add to salads for a real kick. They curl slices are really good in stir fry to give them a yummy zip also. So be checking your garlic sometime between now and the end of the month for curls. After you cut them off, the stalks will start to yellow – this is good, its drawing the last of its growing energy back into the bulb – allow the garlic bulbs to stay in the ground until the stalks are good and dry (about a week to 10 days) and then harvest your garlic. Gently pull the bulbs out, they are tender and need to “harden off”. This is easy – just lay the entire garlic bulb & stalk out (I have a screen I use) to allow them to dry and harden completely. After the papery, white outside layer is obvious then its time to braid or bunch your garlic for use throughout the year. I always retain the best 3-4 bulbs for replanting in the fall. Just store them someplace dark and dry. Break the individual cloves out sometime in early september and plant each clove (at least 4″) from each other and mark the patch so you remember in spring!

Garlic Curls

As usual we include the Farmers Almanac as a General Guideline
June 2010
14th-15th Plant Tomatoes, Beans, Peppers, Corn, Cotton, And Other Above Ground Crops On These Most Fruitful Days. Plant Seedbeds And Flower Gardens
16th-19th Poor Period For Planting. Kill Plant Pests, Clear Fence Rows, Clear Land.
20th-21st Favorable For Planting Peas, Beans, Tomatoes, And Other Fall Crops Bearing Yield Above Ground. Sow Grains And Forage Crops. Plant Flowers.
22nd-24th Extra Good For Planting Fall Lettuce, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Collards, And Other Leafy Vegetables. All Above Ground Crops Planted Now Will Do Well. Plant Seedbeds.
25th-26th Poor Planting Days. Cut Hay Or Do General Farm Work.
27th-29th Plant Late Beets, Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, And Other Root Crops.
30th. Poor Day For Planting. Kill Plant Pests, Spray, Fertilize, Do General Farm Work.

July 2010
1st. Good Day For Killing Weeds, Briars And Other Plant Pests, Poor For Planting.
2nd-4th Good Days For Planting Beets, Carrots, Radishes, Salsify, Turnips, Peanuts, And Other Root Crops. Also Good For Planting Melons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, And Other Vine Crops. Set Strawberry Plants.
5th-6th A Barren Period.
7th-8th Root Crops That Can Be Planted Now Will Yield Well.
9th-10th Poor Days For Planting, Seeds Tend To Rot In Ground.
11th-12th Most Favorable For Corn, Cotton, Okra, Beans, Peppers, Eggplant, And Other Above Ground Crops. Plant Seedbeds And Flower Gardens
13th-16th A Most Barren Period. Kill Plant Pests And Do General Farm Work.

Pillbugs detest hot pepper spray

Two major reasons:
#1 – 80% of munchers do so at night, so the concentration will be strongest just before they expect dinner!
#2 – Spraying at dusk also avoids the problem of sun magnification. When you spray an oil based spray it clings to the leaves with water droplets and can be magnified by the sun causing burn spots that can lead to reduced intake by the leaves. Spaying at dusk allows the spray to distribute and disperse more evenly then during the day.

As common sense would dictate –
Always Label your sprays clearly – a spray of red pepper spray in the face is an unpleasant surprise!
Keep your garden chemicals and sprays out of the reach of children and away from curious pets
Use a piece of cardboard or other “shield” if you have to spray while the wind is blowing – better to wait for evening calm anyway!

laying in soaker hose

Hopefully by now you’ve got your garden plot tilled (wouldn’t be able to do this without my mantis!) and soil amended or at least tested. If you have had poor results in a particular area, soil testing is a great way to see what your soil lacks. Now that your planting spot is ready, your planting plan plotted, watering zones and choice of delivery made (I use soaker hose under weed block) and some seeds started or some cole crops (cabbage, lettuce, kale, mesclun, snow peas) already planted. My Garden Report May 6 to current. Spring means beautiful flowers – the wonderfully aromatic scent of Iris blooming! Both the tall and short varieties are just about peaking, as are the grape hyacinth. Vegetable wise the snow peas are loving this cold, rainy weather. The radishes and lettuce are ready to thin. The garlic seems to be especially happy this year. The swingy May weather is having some effect on the tomatoes, the insulators (water filled tube surrounds) go open during the day and close for any sign of frost – the problem is the tomatoes have grown all the way to the top of their surrounds. The tomatoes are ready for their first feeding – but will time the fertilizing after the tomatoes have had a couple of “open surround” days. Will feed the snow peas and radish’s (after thinning) at the same time. Will have to replant green beans – the hard frost of the 6th finished them off with enough damage they will not recover (BooHoo) but the good news is there is still plenty of time to start beans from seed. Check out the horseradish – the silly thing must think its beyond spring – its already trying to bolt!

Horseradish Blooms!

You know spring is here when the ants start showing up – means the soil temperature is coming up. Ants do have some benefit to the soil by increasing the content of sand particles increasing drainage without affecting soil PH. See the complete article for Organic Tips for when the Ants come marching in here. Sprays, blockades , deterrents are all mentioned in this easy to follow article. Lemon juice, baking soda vinegar are all organic ideas for deterrents. Citrus oil, cinnamon and chalk are all used as barrier deterrents. Sprays range from capsicum, garlic to dish soap. Interesting idea’s all – I currently have a batch of hot pepper/garlic oil brewing – will report on its effectiveness. Check out the article for general pest management sprays here.

Take advantage of your local resources! Local Botanical Gardens (Ogden and Utah) offer excellent classes on everything from lawn management, pruning to general gardening. The classes are informal and wonderfully insightful as they are based on “local” experience. I attended the hanging basket class last year, it was very fun and the selection of plants was impressive and varied. Classes are also taught locally at the Water Conservancy gardens, check their site for classes on best watering practices and perennial recommends for local areas.

Are you looking forward to fresh herbs from your garden? The thyme, oregano and rosemary are all tender ready – The oregano is already at guerrilla stage – If anyone has any ideas I would appreciate comments on how to contain oregano????

Volunteer Oregano!

Alternative options to support local agriculture besides home gardening is to join a CSA. CSA?? Yup – community supported agriculture. Generally they are local farms that offer a weekly delivery of produce for a predetermined sum. You can see if there is one close to you on this page. Community gardens are another great alternative to adding local, organic produce to your menu. Generally, you rent a plot and tend it. All the gardens provide water, weed disposal and lots of local expertise. Plots are very affordable and can be a fun and informative family project. Check here to see if there is a community garden near you. Drumroll……can you hear it??? That is your local farmers market getting ready to start up. Always a great place to pick up weekly, local, organic produce. Click here to find your nearest Market and enjoy experimenting with fresh and new varieties of vegetables, herbs and fruit!

Almanac guidelines for mid month to mid-June (remember these are GENERAL guidelines)

13th-14th Favorable For Planting Beans, Corn, Cotton, Tomatoes, Peppers, And Other Above Ground Crops.
15th-16th Any Seed Planted Now Will Tend To Rot.
17th-18th Most Favorable For Planting Corn, Cotton, Okra, Beans, Peppers, Eggplant, And Other Above Ground Crops. Plant Seedbeds And Flower Gardens.
19th-23rd A Barren Period. Good For Killing Plant Pests, Cultivating, Or Taking A Short Vacation.
24th-25th Excellent Time For Planting Corn, Beans, Peppers, And Other Above Ground Crops. Favorable For Sowing Hay, Fodder Crops, And Grains. Plant Flowers.
26th-27th First Day Excellent For Planting Above Ground Crops. Second Day Favorable For Carrots, Beets, Onions, Turnips, And Other Root Crops. Both Days Good For Planting Cabbage, Lettuce And Other Leafy Vegetables, And For Planting Seedbeds.
28th-30th Do No Planting.
31st. Plant Late Beets, Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, And Other Root Crops.

June 2010
1st. Plant Late Beets, Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, And Other Root Crops.
2nd-4th Poor Days For Planting. Kill Plant Pests, Spray, Fertilize, Do General Farm Work.
5th-6th Favorable Time For Planting Late Root Crops. Also Good For Vine Crops. Set Strawberry Plants.
7th-9th Cut Hay Or Do Plowing On These Barren Days.
10th-11th Good Days For Planting Root Crops.
12th-13th Seeds Planted Now Tend To Rot In Ground.
14th-15th Plant Tomatoes, Beans, Peppers, Corn, Cotton, And Other Above Ground Crops On These Most Fruitful Days. Plant Seedbeds And Flower Garden

ANNUAL “Art in the Garden” CELEBRATION

June 17th Noon-8:00 pm Join us in the Ogden Botanical Gardens to commemorate 16 wonderful years as a treasured spot in Ogden. Discover what is happening, visit the demonstration gardens and arboretum, enjoy a tour conducted by a Master Gardener, along with music, art, and much more.
This free community celebration of the Garden’s anniversary offers:

o Local artists in the Gardens creating beauty right before your eyes.
o Garden tours by Master Gardeners spotlighting new elements of the Gardens and projects that are in the developmental stages.
o Renowned local chefs demonstrating their specialties and providing samples.
o An instrumental performance in this beautiful, relaxing setting.

Mark this date and plan to join us in celebrating 16 years as a treasured destination where visitors find solace, glean ideas to inspire and enhance their own landscape, receive educational information on plant selection and care, simply take a leisurely walk, or enjoy gathering with family and friends in the heart of our community.

laying in hoses

Two days later!

Does goofy spring weather deter us gardening types??? Absolutely not! My own progress this year, the raised vegetables beds are amended and tilled for planting. I have managed to stick to my gardening plot/plan (companion plantings considered) and lay the soaker hoses accordingly. Double lines for those water thirsty types, single lines for those that like it hot! Planning better for early and late plantings in consideration. The use of soaker hose does quite well under weed block (I really don’t like to weed) and grass clippings on top of the weed block as the summer goes along helps both the water retention and nitrogen.

We’re going to try two new things this year, a lacinato (or black) kale and a romanesco broccoli. I’ve heard that broccoli doesn’t do well and tends to get buggy so I’m going to have some hot pepper spray ready for those and the bean starts. I’ve found that the hot pepper oil spray works really well against billbugs “mowing” the bean starts every night. Got the weed block stapled down and planted the cold tolerant crops today – lettuce, radish, snow peas, mesclun and green beans. I know, I know – the green beans are really chancy this early, but they are in a raised bed and I can buffer (with straw) and cover (with tarp) in case of last minute snow. As long as we don’t have a really hard freeze they should make it…right??? Don’t you love gardeners – they are the ultimate optimists.

Garlic babies!

The good news is the garlic I planted last fall (33 cloves) have all come up!!! 100% return – WAHHHOOOO! The stalks above the ground are about 5″ high and seem to be really happy. I have had to cover them twice since they came up, but they have come up through the straw/mulch of last season, so they are really quite well protected yet.
Got all the seeds I need – will be planting snap peas, cucumbers, additional carrots to the “patch” after the frosts have passed. I do buy starts for my tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. The cages for the three eggplant and five types of peppers (med round tomato cages) are strategically placed and ready. I find that cages are really helpful to both eggplant and peppers for our summer storms and wind that precedes them. If your garden has a prevalent southern winds, you may find the cages handy also. They allow a more structured growth and allow better pruning access and later, better picking access.

General recommendations from the farmers almanac for April 2010 are such:

11th-13th Favorable days for planting root crops, very good for vine crops. Set strawberry plants.
14th-15th Poor Planting Days.
16th-17th Favorable For planting beans, corn, tomatoes, peppers.
18th-19th Poor Planting Days
20th-21st Best days for planting bean, corn, peppers, tomatoes. Plant seeds. Start flower gardens.
22nd-25th Weed, pest management days.
26th-28th Good for planting corn, melons, squash, tomatoes. Sow grain, hay & fodder
28th Favorable for planting root crops.
29th-30th Plant beets, carrots, radishes, turnips. Also cabbage, cauliflower, 2nd lettuces, kale, celery – leafy vegetables ok.

Looks like I’m waiting until May 4-5th to put in my red onion sets – I halved an eighty set with a friend as red onions don’t store as well as yellow or white and 40 onions is plenty of red’s for our summer cooking. I should probably plant yellows but they are so available and locally grown that it is not really good money sense to grow in precious raised bed space. Although leeks are a great alternative to onions, not as sharp in taste, easily grown (year round…yes even here) and while easier on the gastro system than onions….consider a patch of leeks for your garden. If you want a bit more information about Leeks – click here.

Baking soda, cinnamon, baby powder, cayenne pepper and chalk can all used to create a “barrier” that ants will not cross. You can surround an area and create a defensive line around a bed or plant that the ants are creating a problem at. The advantage to chalk is that you can use it on vertical surfaces. None of the substances are poisonous and shouldn’t bother pets. Although be careful to not use cayenne if there are young children around – a fingerful to the mouth can ruin your entire day and theirs!

For sprays, many things are used to remove ants from an area. Ants detest citrus oils, so a spray made with lemon peel/juice or orange rinds will deter them from an area. A vinegar spray is most effective too. Several gardeners recommend putting a tad of honey in your vinegar spray, but I found that a spray of just white vinegar around an a doorway very effective. Another spray that is touted as being very successful is an eucalyptus based. Simply mix 20 drops of eucalyptus essential oil per 2 cups of water to a spray bottle (Always label your bottles clearly) shake well and spray away.

A couple of natural deterrents are cucumber peels (the more bitter the cuke the better!) The chinese bitter cucumber peels work the very best – a line of them will send a pack of ants packing elsewhere. Mint is also a natural deterrent – be careful about planting it as a companion plant as it can become very aggressive and spread easily. Mint tea bags are a great defense and easily removed – ring the subjected plant and ants be gone! Coffee grounds can be used to ring a plant as a deterrent, too.

Now if elimination is key, there are some ways to kill ants…. Cornmeal is the easiest. Ants cannot digest it and they will take it back to the nest and it will continue to do damage there. A killing spray can be achieved by mixing of 1/8 teaspoon of powdered borax and sugar or honey will attract and kill ants. Worker ants take it back to the nest and pass it onto other ants, killing the colony. Caution using borax – it can kill in large doses – label this mix clearly and keep away from children and pets.

In the past I have used a cayenne, garlic oil spray to deter ants – See the previous article on organic pest sprays.

Fall Gardening WrapUp

Fall is a special season to gardeners… Its a busy and rewarding time for those of us who “do dirt”. Time to enjoy the last of the fresh tomatoes, dig the potatoes and horseradish, put up or can whatever the family likes or uses the most of during winter. Pick and store some winter squash, harvest the apples and carve a pumpkin or two. The “fruits” of their labor are usually abundant at harvest, so pick up a fresh apple and enjoy!

My To Do list for Fall:

Complete Harvest – pull out annuals
Amend the soil – add compost, organic material
Wrap up the compost pile for winter – add leaves, last of garden clipping
Take in your hoses, wrap and/or prep water system for freeze
Feed your lawn (if you only do it once a year – fall is best according to Jerry)
Plant any spring bulbs and do any transplanting needed
Clean, maintenance and store gardening tools
FUNTIME – Pull out the gardening wishbooks and start thinking about 2010 (if you haven’t preplanted anything so far).

If the master gardening class taught me anything, it was to keep a gardening journal. Let it record your plans, success and failures, best practices, pests and timing of harvest(s). This all helps you plan for the next year. I usually start with my layout, using this years plot to determine where I will plant my garlic this fall for next summers harvest. So, if you have planted garlic this fall then there is your starting point. Reflecting on this years beds and harvest went lets me know how well this past years plotting worked. Reviewing this always helps me plan for crop rotation for next year. Checking with my companion planting chart aids this process, using plants to produce low pests and good harvests. If you have perirennials such as horseradish in a garden bed as you know by now, just plan around it. The garlic will be out early enough to plant a second crop in its place. I usually plant green beans for a second crop where the garlic has come out – there seem to be two bonus’s, first it seems to be a good soil/pest deterrent as they have no common predators and secondly the green beans are sprouting during the hot month and will bear well into late september – you just have to watch the pillbugs (also known as rolly polly, potato or armadillo bugs) at first – they just LOVE baby green bean shoots (a spray of capsicum will usually do). Check my article on organic sprays for more ideas!

Below is one the “essentials” in the garden tool box!

Mantis Electric Tiller The Mantis Electric Tiller/Cultivator makes gardening extra easy! The powerful electric motor is so easy to start, and is so quiet to operate. Includes a FREE Border Edger and Kickstand, plus a FREE Owners Video. When you buy direct from Mantis, you get the most complete electric tiller package, PLUS, free shipping. And, your tiller is delivered direct to your door… what could be more convenient! The Mantis Electric Tiller/Cultivator is backed by a two-year warranty, plus a lifetime warranty on the tines against breakage. That’s not all. The Mantis Tiller is backed by the Mantis Promise. Click here to see the Mantis Electric Tiller features. You can get the Mantis Electric Tiller/Cultivator fully-assembled …just take it out of the box, and you’re ready to go! Can it get any better?